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Spotlight on Melissa Berns: Bringing the Flavors of Kodiak to the 2025 Alaska Food Festival and Conference
By Leah Moss, Communications and Outreach Director, AFPC
When the 2025 Alaska Food Festival and Conference comes to Kodiak, attendees will experience the rich culinary traditions of this remote island community through the food of Melissa Berns, chef and owner of the local restaurant Nuniaq.
I was pleased to have the opportunity to speak with her to better understand her drive, her connection to food and community, and her vision for the future of Kodiak’s food systems.
Melissa’s journey to becoming a celebrated chef and restaurateur in Kodiak began in her childhood, growing up in the small village of Old Harbor. “Cooking has always been a passion of mine,” she explains. “I grew up in the kitchen with my mom, siblings, and relatives. Food was at the center of everything we did as a family.” This deep connection to food and community shaped Melissa’s path.
After moving to Kodiak in 2017, she started a small catering business, renting kitchen space throughout the island. “The demand was great enough that I started looking for my own brick-and-mortar space,” she says. In 2021, Melissa opened Nuniaq, her restaurant that would become a hub for Kodiak’s vibrant food scene. Melissa’s menu at Nuniaq is a reflection of the bounty of the island, featuring fresh, seasonal seafood sourced directly from the docks. “People really appreciate that we have reduced food miles – we can get fresh fish right at the dock and get it onto their plate within the same day,” she says.
Her focus on local foods goes beyond just solving logistical challenges. “Growing up in Old Harbor, I learned to live off the land. I commercial fished for 23 years on my dad’s boat, so I have an appreciation for our fishing industry that I try to share,” Melissa explains. “And when we went through COVID, we really saw how important it is to be able to rely on our local food sources. That’s shaped my perspective on food security and why it’s so crucial for us to build up our community’s resilience.”
This appreciation for local foods manifests in Melissa’s work as a “traditional chef,” teaching youth about foods like seal, sea lion, and other ocean bounties. “We would learn how our ancestors and my grandparents grew up eating them, how they grew up processing them, and then take them and put a contemporary spin on some of those traditional foods to make it more appealing to the modern-day palate.” Melissa’s deep roots in the Alutiiq community have also influenced her culinary vision. “I identify as Alutiiq, and I try to honor those traditions and connections to the land and waters in everything I do,” she says.
Like all Alaskans, Melissa has faced challenges in accessing the products she needs for her restaurant, especially when it comes to transportation to this remote island community. “The biggest hurdle has been just getting items here. I mean, you’re looking at twice the cost for shipping just because it’s so far.”
In light of these obstacles, Melissa remains committed to sourcing as much local food as possible, including produce from Mal’uk Farm, Brightbox Farms, and Sitkalidak Sunrise Farm. One of her goals for the future is to be able to serve bison meat from the herd in Old Harbor, where she grew up. “I would love to be able to get a mobile abattoir or mobile processing unit out there so that we can bring that meat to the greater Kodiak community, and I can purchase it, and then I could sell it here at my restaurant.”
Melissa’s commitment to community food security is also evident in her involvement with the bison herd in Old Harbor. “Our leadership had the goal of having a secure protein source available for our community members because the cost of bringing in and importing red meats or any goods into Old Harbor was very cost-prohibitive to many families.” The herd, now over 200 strong, provides meat through cultural hunts and community distribution, focusing on elders and youth. “It really brought our people closer to their food source and gave them a greater appreciation for the land and the bison. We are filling freezers, and people are loving it – these are a lot of homes and families that would have gone without.”
As Melissa looks to the future, her vision for Nuniaq includes expanding the outdoor seating and capacity to offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner. “Kodiak really lacks in breakfast eateries right now. I would like to be able to provide a more welcoming environment for all meals for our community.”
Attendees of the 2025 Alaska Food Festival and Conference will enjoy Melissa’s culinary artistry firsthand as she showcases the flavors and stories of Kodiak’s vibrant food community. We are excited to taste the unique resources of Kodiak crafted by a chef with such a passion for and connection to place.
I am excited about the future of Kodiak’s food systems with someone like Melissa, who is engaged and deeply committed to building a thriving community. I also hear her bison chili is to die for!
